Be sure everything is square and secure before you start gluing. Once the formers are in place, you start adding the stringers and the 1/8 balsa sheets. The fuselage is next, and you don’t have to worry about it being too hard to do. First you build a crutch structure over the plans and then slide the formers onto it. The crutch has to be raised up about five inches off the building board using blocks or boards. This gives you straight sheet edges along the leading and trailing edges with the angle cuts butted together over the main spars. After building all of the control surfaces set then aside also. The horizontal and vertical stabilizers are built over the plans and sheeted just like the wing. A hint here is to follow the sheeting direction shown on the plans. After the wing has been sheeted,set it aside. The wing skins are made by butt-gluing the balsa sheets together with pink (thin) ZAP CA glue. Glue the bottom sheets on using green (medium) ZAP and once the glue has dried, add the top skin sheets using yellow wood glue. Use what ever method you prefer but everything from pins, tape, and a stack of books can be used to hold the top sheets in place. Be sure to check the angles and the depth of the gear before you glue the blocks in. The wing is built in two halves over the plans and once the basic structure is complete, you join the two halves and start sheeting the structure. Install the gear blocks and the landing gear first so you can then establish the shape and size of the wheel-well openings. It is a good idea to have the landing gear you plan to use before you start the wing, and a set of Robart retracts and wheels are also available from Nick Ziroli Plans. The plans have templates to cut all parts, but a wood kit is available from Precision Cut Kits ( save some time. The best way to get started is with a set of plans, a fiberglass cowling and a plastic canopy from Nick Ziroli plans. It has relatively straightforward structure and construction, has wide landing gear placement for great ground handling and landing and excellent flight performance. Of all the Ziroli warbirds, it is agreed by most that the Zero is an excellent choice for a first time build. This article highlights exactly what’s involved in building, fitting out and flying a classic from the Ziroli hangar, the Japanese Zero Fighter. Some experienced modelers however find it a little intimidating to make the step up to 100-inch-span warbirds. And when it comes to building and flying great performing giant scale warbirds, none come close to the well proven designs drawn and test flown by Nick Ziroli, ( ) the godfather of RC giant scale. The popularity of giant scale WW2 RC warbirds is basically off the charts, and everyone views them as the top of the “Wow Factor” ladder.
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